Growing guides
How to grow microgreens
The method, and what to do when a tray goes wrong. Is that mold or root hair, is it ready to cut, why has it gone leggy, why is it collapsing. Written from crops actually grown, not summarized from other sites.
A first tray costs about $8 if you own a lamp and a container, and about $60 if you do not. Nearly all of that difference is the light. Everything else on the list, the trays, the medium, the seed and something to keep the cut crop in, comes to under ten dollars together.
Grow one tray of one crop before you buy anything else. The equipment questions answer themselves once you have seen a crop through, and most of them turn out to matter less than the buying guides suggest. What follows is the short version of nine equipment reviews and 62 researched crops, with links to the long versions.
What a first tray actually costs
Every figure here comes from this site's own equipment reviews, each priced on a stated date and rechecked at least every two months.
Hover or tap a row to highlight it.
| What | Cost | Where the number comes from |
|---|---|---|
| Two 1020 trays, one perforated and one solid | $5.78 | Trays |
| Growing medium, one tray | $1.04 to $1.30 | Growing medium |
| Seed, one beginner crop | $0.39 to $2.01 | The variety directory |
| Something to store the cut crop in | $0 to $0.10 | Storage containers |
| Everything except the light | under $10 | |
| A light, if you do not own a suitable one | about $51 | Grow lights |
| A first tray, all in | about $60 |
The light is roughly 85 percent of the budget and it is the one thing nobody has measured. Across every fixture in the grow lights review, from cheap linkable strips to tunable panels sold as an upgrade, no independent light reading taken across a 1020 tray at a stated hanging height could be found for a single one of them. So buy the cheapest fixture that covers the tray and spend the difference on seed. A sunny window is a legitimate starting point for a first crop.
Two things are not on this list on purpose. You do not need a rack for one or two trays, and you do not need a pump, a timer or anything described as a watering system. The shelving review says to use a table until trays outgrow it, and the watering review says the whole system is the two trays already in the table above.
What to grow first
As of 2026-08-11, 20 of the 62 crops in this directory are rated Beginner, and 15 of those have a published seed rate, day count, yield and cost. Those 15 are the honest shortlist.
Hover or tap a row to highlight it.
| Crop | Days | Seed per tray | Yield per tray |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mizuna | 8 to 15 | $0.39 | 10 oz |
| Lentil | 8 to 12 | $0.47 | 6.1 to 8.4 oz |
| Arugula | 6 to 19 | $0.48 | 10 oz |
| Broccoli raab | 7 to 12 | $0.49 | 5.3 to 8.8 oz |
| Broccoli | 7 to 15 | $0.79 | 11.5 oz |
| Kohlrabi | 10 to 16 | $0.89 | 11 oz |
| Tatsoi | 8 to 15 | $0.93 | 8.5 oz |
| Kale | 8 to 15 | $1.07 | 11 oz |
| Radish | 6 to 10 | $2.01 | 8 to 11.5 oz |
| Pak choi | 8 to 13 | $2.50 | 11 oz |
The cheap trays return as much as the expensive ones. Mizuna makes about 10 ounces from 39 cents of seed. Radish makes 8 to 11.5 ounces from $2.01, which is five times the seed cost for no more crop. What radish actually buys is speed: 6 to 10 days is the tightest fast window on the list, and if you want to see a result quickly that is a real reason to pay for it.
If you want one recommendation: broccoli. 79 cents, 7 to 15 days, and the highest published yield on the shortlist at 11.5 ounces. It is also the crop the most research exists on, so if it goes wrong there is something to read.
Then grow the same crop twice before changing anything. Almost every number on this site varies with the room it was grown in, and the second tray tells you more about your own conditions than any guide can.
The five decisions, and where each is answered
Everything you actually have to decide
Hover or tap a card to highlight it.
What to grow it in
Two 1020 trays, one with holes and one without. The one with holes holds the crop, the one without holds the water. The trays review explains why a premium tray buys handling and not yield.
What to grow it on
Loose coco coir or a plain seed-starting mix. The medium review works out that a single-use mat often costs more than the seed does.
How to light it
Any white LED strip or shop light sized to the shelf, on a timer. Extension guidance puts it 6 to 12 inches above the foliage. The lights review is the one to read if you are tempted by a spectrum claim.
How to water it
Pour into the bottom tray, wait, and pour off whatever is still standing after 15 to 30 minutes. The watering review explains why no published figure exists for how much.
What to do with it after cutting
Keep it cold, keep it dry, and do not wash it until you eat it. The storage review has the evidence, and it is mostly about temperature rather than the box.
What the beginner guides state confidently that nobody has established
This is the part worth reading twice, because these instructions are repeated everywhere in a confident voice and this site could not find the measurements behind them.
Soaking is the exception, not the step. As of 2026-08-11, 41 of the 62 crops here need no soak at all, 18 do, and 3 are unestablished. The standard "soak your seed 8 to 12 hours" instruction is wrong for roughly two thirds of the directory, and on a few crops it actively ruins the tray: flax and garden cress form a gel around the seed in water, so soaking them makes an unspreadable mass. Look the crop up.
Blackout is crop-specific and two crops here have a published zero. Mint and sorrel are recorded with no blackout at all, and mint's own supplier reports minimal or no germination when the seed is covered. Lettuce is light-responsive and gets a clear lid for a day at most. A blanket "cover it for three days" instruction is not safe across this directory.
Nobody has published how much water a tray needs, for any crop. Not a volume, not a frequency, not at any growth stage. The grower advice conflicts openly: two growers use the phrase "one to two cups" and describe opposite outcomes. Pour, wait, look, and write down what your own tray took.
"You overwatered it" is folklore as a diagnosis, not a finding. It is the most repeated explanation for a failing tray and it explains almost nothing, because the diseases involved also turn up in trays nobody would call wet. Check temperature, airflow, drainage, how long it stayed covered and how thickly it was sown before you change the watering.
Only 5 of the 62 crops have a published harvest window, meaning a measured number of days the tray holds at good quality after it is ready. For the other 57 the honest answer is to watch the leaves rather than the calendar.
Shelf life is not one number. The 38 crops that publish one span 1 day to 21, and the crops at the low end are there because their sources disagree rather than because the crop fails fast. There is no general "microgreens keep a week" fact.
None of this means the advice is wrong. It means it is unmeasured, which is a different thing, and it is why every page here names who said a number and what they did to get it.
When it goes wrong
Nine consecutive research sweeps on this site reached the same conclusion: the microgreen community talks about problems, not about crops. Root hairs, mold, a leggy tray, a collapse. These four pages are the ones people actually need, and they are written for somebody standing over a tray deciding whether to act.
The four questions everyone asks at the tray
Hover or tap a card to highlight it.
White fuzz on the surface
Usually root hair, and the word that separates it from mold is BRIDGING. Mold or root hair
Is it ready to cut
The leaves tell you, not the day count, and reading cotyledons as true leaves is the most consequential mistake here. When to harvest
Long thin stems, pale leaves
Etiolation, a light response, and the stems will not shorten once stretched. Leggy and pale
Yellowing, falling over, collapsing
Check the collar at the medium line first, and do not jump to overwatered. Yellowing and collapsing
Where to go next
The variety directory carries all 62 crops, each with its seed rate, days, yield, cost per tray, what it tastes like and what specifically goes wrong with it. It is the part of this site to use once you know you want to grow something in particular.
The equipment reviews are nine pages, and the honest summary of all nine is that most gear matters less than its marketing suggests. Four of them recommend buying nothing.
Selling microgreens covers the licensing question in all 52 states plus the federal rules, each naming the agency that decides. Read it before you sell anything, not after.
Feeding microgreens to animals covers ten species, with the evidence named and the gaps named too.
The words that turn up everywhere
Tap a term to see what it means.
1020 tray. The 10 by 20 inch tray the trade uses, about 1,290 square centimeters. Every seed rate and yield on this site is per 1020.
Sources
- University of Maryland Extension, growing microgreens and baby greens indoors - grow lights 6 to 12 inches above the foliage, 16 hours, and that a sunny window may suffice in some cases.
- Utah State University Extension, grow your own microgreens - the seeded 1020, the 2 to 5 lb weight during dark germination, and per-tray seed costs for common crops.
- Virginia Tech Extension SPES-756 - seeding density by species rather than a universal rate, uncovering at majority germination, bottom watering, and that irrigation rate varies with system and substrate and changes from sowing to harvest.
- Penn State Extension, a step by step guide for growing microgreens at home - the blackout-then-light method, bottom watering, untreated seed, and that washing before storage substantially shortens shelf life.
- New Mexico State University, microgreens for consumers - washing too early damages tissue, adds moisture and can shorten shelf life, and leaving greens uncut until use avoids the damage of cutting entirely.
- UC IPM, damping-off - the pathogens involved, decay at or below the medium line, and that different species favor different moisture and temperature conditions, which is what defeats "too much water" as a diagnosis.
Every guide in this pillar

Why do my microgreens taste bitter? Usually because that crop is supposed to
45 of the 62 crops here are described as sharp, peppery or bitter in their own tasting notes. And the one study linking light to bitter chemistry was run at 30 to 90 PPFD, entirely below the 234 to 358 this site recommends.

How long to blackout microgreens, crop by crop
Take the blackout days from your crop, not from a general rule. Across the 55 crops here that publish a figure the range runs 0 to 14 days, and 29 of them top out at 4 or 5.

Cleaning trays between crops: the sequence, and how long the sanitizer actually needs
Published chlorine figures for food contact run 50 to 200 ppm depending on the job, and the required wet contact time is measured in seconds. Grower pages recommend soaking for 10 to 20 minutes, which is 20 to 170 times longer and traceable to nobody.

Do microgreens regrow after cutting? Almost none of them do, and one is the exception
Roots do not make a new shoot; a surviving node does. The one documented regrowth path takes 3 to 4 weeks, which is about twice as long as simply sowing a fresh tray.

Do microgreens need fertilizer? It is worth 8 to 47 percent of the yield and up to 227 times the nitrate
In one peat trial, taking the feed away cost cabbage 7.9 percent of its yield and arugula 47.4 percent, while cutting nitrate in the cut crop by 98 to 227 fold. Feeding is the largest lever anyone has measured on either number.

Growing microgreens for animals: no species has a published dose, and one tray costs ten pounds of layer pellets
An on-farm study measured a 10 by 20 tray at 7.31 oz, within 4 percent of this directory's median. It also tested whether fodder could cut feed costs for laying hens: it did not, and egg production fell.

Day 8 against day 14: what you are actually trading by waiting
The largest yield gain in the harvest-stage literature is 80.1 percent. Divide it by the five extra days it cost and it is worth 5.1 percent. Nutrient concentration does not peak; some compounds rise, some fall, and nobody reports the total per tray.

Do you need a heat mat? The arithmetic says probably not, and it can overshoot
A heated home runs about 68F and a mat adds 9 to 20 above ambient, which lands at 77 to 88. Spinach stops germinating at 75. Nothing shows a mat produces an earlier harvest or more crop in a room already in range.

How fast do microgreens grow? Take the number from your crop, not from a general range
Read the harvest field on all 62 crop entries here and only 15 of the 61 that publish one fit entirely inside 7 to 14 days. The real spread is 4 to 35 days, and the shelf cost between the fastest and slowest crop is 36.6-fold.

How to harvest microgreens: where to cut, with what, and how to keep it clean
Cut height is the one harvest decision shown to change the microbiology: cutting higher above the medium measurably lowers bacterial counts. Here is where to put the blade, what to cut with, and how to keep the cut clean.

Hydroponic and soil-free microgreens: the same swap costs a third of the pea crop and gains on radish
In one replicated trial, moving from peat-perlite to coir cost pea 32.7 percent of its yield and gained radish 4.5 percent. Two extension services cannot even agree whether a mat counts as hydroponic, and the word is doing two jobs at once.

Growing a mix: one blend has a one-day harvest window and another keeps for three days
Checked against this directory's own fields, one commercial brassica blend's five components overlap on exactly one day, and a three-crop spicy blend keeps to its shortest member at 2 to 3 days while another component lasts 14.

Outdoors and under glass: the tunnel is hottest exactly when you need it coolest
A high tunnel has been recorded at 120 to 140F in March and April and near 0F overnight in January, against a recommended 64 to 75F band. Of seven pages on this subject, none publishes a loss rate or a saving.

Pests and mold on a tray: isolate it, do not spray it, and fix the next crop
For a tray that is already affected the answer is isolate and dispose, then clean the system before the next crop. Spraying is not an option on a seven-day crop, and prevention is where all the leverage actually is.

Nothing came up: reading a failed tray instead of guessing at it
Every page lists the same seven causes and none tells you which one happened. Where the bare patch sits, and what an excavated seed looks like, rules most of them out in about two minutes.

Can you reuse the medium? Reuse clean loose coir, replace the mat, never reuse a failed tray
Every source says reuse loose coir and throw the mat away. Priced from this directory, that permits reuse on the cheapest material and forbids it on the dearest. The one experiment that measured anything covers 4 of the 12 materials an extension service names.

Save it or compost it: three different questions with three different answers
Can I eat this, can I sell this, and will it recover are three separate decisions, and not one of the six pages checked kept them apart. The rescue everybody recommends is the one the evidence argues against.

Growing microgreens in a small space: what fits, and what a jar actually gives you
A windowsill and a shallow tray will grow microgreens; a rinsed jar grows something else. Jars produce sprouts, eaten whole, which FDA treats as a distinct risk category, so the method decides what you end up with.

Soaking microgreen seed: only 12 of 62 crops need it
The standard advice is to soak overnight, 6 to 12 hours. Counted against this site's own per-crop figures, 41 of 62 crops soak for zero hours and only 12 have a soak time that starts above zero. And the one ten-species trial found soaking moved emergence forward without moving the harvest.

What to grow microgreens in: the medium barely moves yield and roughly doubles nitrate
Every medium comparison argues about yield, where the honest spread between reasonable media is 13 to 16 percent. The measurement nobody quotes is nitrate, which moved about twofold across three crops in two independent trials, and not always in the same direction.

Sowing a tray: how much seed, and why grams are not density
The published seed rates in this directory span 409-fold, from 1.1 g to 450 g a tray, so sow thick is not an instruction. Density has been measured properly about three times, the optima are six times apart, and it turns out to be a food-safety variable as well as a yield one.

Stuck hulls: one fix has evidence, and it costs you yield
Six pages, six techniques, five causal explanations and not one study between them. The only controlled result says weight during blackout reduces attached hulls, and that more of it reduces the harvest.

My microgreens are too short: telling a stunted tray from a naturally compact crop
Check the height against the crop before you treat it as a fault, because several crops simply finish short. If the tray is genuinely stunted, low light is the one cause it cannot be: too little light makes a tray taller.

Temperature, humidity and airflow: run the room at 70°F and it suits 39 of 44 crops
About 70°F sits inside the published germination range for 39 of the 44 crops here that have one, so a single setting runs most of a mixed bench. Airflow is the instruction everyone gives and nobody quantifies.

Tray setup and drainage: the real usable area of a 1020, and how deep it needs to be
Two 1020 trays on sale today have inside floors of 187.6 and 192.6 square inches against the nominal 200, so every per-tray rate is quoted in a unit that varies. The one depth trial found yield still rising at 2.3 inches, which is above almost all published advice.

What water to use on microgreens: the chlorine worry is 9x below the tested threshold, and the real risk is elsewhere
In the one dose-response study, broccoli tolerated 37 mg/L of residual chlorine before declining and vegetable seed germination was unaffected at 77. The federal drinking water ceiling is 4.0. Of eight ranking pages audited, none cited a source.

Watering a tray: how much, how often, and what overwatering actually means
Overwatering is blamed for more failed trays than anything else in this category and has no numerical definition anywhere. The published volumes disagree by four times, and the reason is the medium: hemp holds nearly three times as much water per gram as coir does.

Microgreens with kids: the crops that finish inside a two-week unit, and covering the weekend
Pick from the 5 crops that reliably finish inside a two-week unit, and plan for the weekend, because every published protocol assumes daily care and a school week is five days in seven.

Growing microgreens year round: what actually changes indoors between summer and winter
At the same outdoor temperature, measured indoor temperatures across 327 homes spanned 8 degrees Celsius in summer and more than 10 in winter. Three of six year-round guides never mention room temperature at all.

What one shelf actually produces, and the rack depth a 1020 really needs
The 48 by 18 inch rack recommended for four 1020s per shelf is 2 to 3 inches too shallow to hold one without overhang. A 16-position rack in 8 square feet returns about 8 ounces a day at this directory's median rate.

How to buy microgreen seed, and what the label cannot tell you
Nobody routinely tests microgreen seed for pathogens, food grade is not a certification, and organic makes no measured difference to the microbes. What matters is a traceable, explicitly untreated lot. Plus what 57 seed searches on this site actually returned.

Leggy, pale and leaning microgreens
Long thin stems and pale leaves are a light problem, not a water problem. The stems will not shorten once stretched, and the internet's usual answer is not supported by any source that says so.

Lighting microgreens: how much, how long, and when it starts
Intensity has a measured saturation point, hours change yield more than spectrum does, and the same five-day blackout raised sunflower yield 13 percent while cutting arugula's by 24. Everything published about lighting this crop is about which fixture to buy.

Mold or root hair?
The white fuzz on a microgreen tray is usually root hair, and there is no test at the tray that proves it. What the mist test can and cannot tell you, and the one word that separates the two.

When to harvest microgreens
The cue is the leaf, not the calendar. Published day ranges run from 6 to 23 depending on the crop, and the one trial that actually tested harvest stage found the best result at about 75 percent true-leaf emergence, for two crops.

Yellowing, wilting and collapsing microgreens
Four different faults end with a tray lying down, and their remedies are opposites. The collar is what tells you which one you have, and a wilted tray that stands back up was thirsty, not diseased.